Beaches and Coasts

accretion B.E.B. Tech barrier beach base-level beach gradient beach material beach profile Blackpool bottom break-point bar Camber Castle changes Chesil beach classification cliffs coast coastline considered currents curves cuspate foreland Darbyshire deep water deposition direction dunes effect erosion example factor FEET fetch foreshore formation Geog Gibraltar Point gradient increase island Journ KNOTS lagoon landward Lincolnshire Lincolnshire coast longshore movement longshore transport marine marsh maximum median diameter miles move movement of material NAUTICAL MILES normal North Sea observations offshore onshore wind Orford Ness particles Perranporth ridge and runnel ripples sand beaches sea-level seaward sediment shallow water shingle beaches shore shown in fig slope spit storm waves submarine bars surveys swash bar tidal range tide level tombolo water level wave action wave crest wave energy wave height wave length wave period wave refraction wave steepness wave tank wind speed zone